"ah, the orange groves," i said, and my neighbor's eyes lit up. "i went there once. a friend and i wanted to go to egypt but the only overnight boat from limassol was going to israel."
"i remember we ate these amazing olives in haifa-- both black and green. they were enormous-- even bigger than eggs. my friend automatically refused at first, and i was annoyed because they were just incredible... a man drove us up into the mountains for a view of the harbor and israeli coast. it was eerie because we also got to see lebanon and a few large ships... an old woman invited us inside her home and served cake which seemed to be completely made out of seeds. it was horrible-- we still talk about it. it was like a square of one million grains of sand completely held together with syrup. maybe it was sephardic? or semolina and honey?"
he nodded and nodded, clearly understanding everything i said.
"all of the surfers there... the endless miles of beaches. it's funny how i had never really associated israel with its golden mediterranean coastline before arriving in haifa that day."
i didn't know what to say.
that wasn't the point.




